Mt. Pulag via Akiki Trail (2,922 MASL)- Killer Trail. Killer Cold. Awesome Views
Mt. Pulag via Akiki Trail (2,922 MASL)- Killer Trail. Killer Cold. Awesome Views
Akiki Campsite
Rising at 2, 922 MASL, Mt. Pulag is the highest mountain in Luzon and officially, the second highest in the Philippines. The indigenous people living in or near the area believe that the summit of the said mountain is the playground of the Gods and surely, everyone who had been there would agree because the amazing sea of clouds can make one feel like they are in heaven.
There are four (4) major trails in Mt. Pulag: Ambangeg, Akiki, Tawangan, and Ambaguio. Mountaineers who have had the experience of climbing all four trails says that each one is very unique in terms of challenge and views.
As a very new newbie (sobrang baguhan kasi!) I first climbed Pulag via the “easy” Ambangeg route last February 2014. It is a very meaningful mountain for me because it was where I got inducted to my mountaineering group. This December 2014, I went back to try what is dubbed as the “killer trail” – Akiki.
For future reminiscing, here is the account of my first climb with Bakekamp Trinoma, and my first climb to Pulag via Akiki.
December 3, 2014 (Day 0) – A threat of a super typhoon is looming and people are afraid. There were many predictions of where typhoon Ruby, internationally known as typhoon Hagupit, would hit and one of the areas predicted is the Cordilleras. However, the official weather announcement from the country said that it would hit eastern Vizayas, far from the great mountains of the north- we believed this and pushed through with the climb even though other people is telling us to cancel our trip (haha pasaway talaga!).
Our Baguio bound bus left at 10pm and by 4am the following day, we are already in Baguio feeling the chilly cold.
December 4, 2014 (Day 1)- Before we started the hike, we ate breakfast at a famous carinderia called Jang-jang’s. We then headed to the nearby hanging bridge after eating some hearty serving of rice and ulam, and drinking coffee. Because we arrived earlier than expected, we had more time wandering and taking pictures at the hanging bridge. I went up until the middle of the bridge to see the view of the Cordilleras and to challenge myself to look at the abyss below even when the familiar fear of heights come a-knocking.
Hanging bridge near JangJang's (by Anna Bass)
We went to the DENR office after breakfast for the registration and some lectures on Leave no Trace (LNT) principles. A video about responsible hiking was shown and the PASu gave some advice on the do’s and don’ts at Pulag.
We rode the monster jeepney again after the registration and for 45- minutes enjoyed all Cordillera has to offer in our premier seats at the top of the jeepney.
When we arrived at the jump-off, no one really expected a sudden ascent so early in the hike. The stairs leading to the station gave us a taste of what the Akiki trail offers: a steep, and seemingly endless assault. It was as if the stairs was teasing us and saying we still have time to back out if we want to.
We started the trek at about 9am after re-arranging our things at the ranger station and meeting the guide and the porter of the other groups. The air was a bit chilly but the sun is already high up in the sky. After about three and a half hours of trekking through established pine lined trail, we reached the Eddet River. I was expecting a 4-5+ hour hike and I cannot believe we are already setting camp as early as 12:30 pm.
Passing by a sacred burial cave
Mighty mountains of the Cordilleras as seen during the trek to Eddet River
Setting camp near Eddet River
The Eddet campsite is very convienient: there are two toilet and bathrooms, and there is also running water where one can get water and rinse messkits. If you have items to chill, Eddet River and its cold waters is there to serve as cooler.
We have lots of time to spare. After setting camp, some went for a dip at the river, some slept, and others took a bath.
During dinner, rice from different groups were presented, tested, and judged. No group, of course, passed. Our rice were either not fully cooked, is burnt, or has too much water. No matter what technique we do/apply, we cannot cook a perfect caldero of rice up until our dinner on the last day haha.
We drank beer and passed around some drinks during the socials after dinner. It was our climb organizer’s birthday so we enjoyed the lightly chilled Cordillera air until we feel sleepy.
December 5, 2014 (Day 2)- Our day started early at day 2 because we have to go ahead of the other group with 40 hikers. We were already up at 3:00 am and started trekking at 4: 45am. Our itinerary for the day says that we are to pass the pine forest, the mossy forest, then the “marlboro country” before reaching the campsite. It was a grueling 7-8 hour hike on a trail that becomes steeper and steeper in every step. The only leveled area in my memory is the hanging bridge over Eddet River at the hike’s start.
Pine Forest
I realized that I do not know the real meaning of “assault” up until this hike. There were times when I really want to give up and the questions “what the hell am I doing here?”, “why am I hiking in the first place?” kept cropping up in my mind. I felt so tired but I know I have to move and continue – mind over mountain, mind over mountain I silently chanted.
Mossy Forest
The weather was a bit bad when I emerged from the mossy forest. There was a light rain, fog, and heavy wind as I struggle up to the Marlboro country. It was so cold and the wind was beginning to feel like the wind at Tarak Ridge. As I continue further, I saw Warren Lim and Sir William- Anna was too far ahead of me at this time and I felt some company would be good to lighten my damp spirit.
Further up Marlboro Country, the wind became stronger and stronger. I am so thankful for the help of my trekking pole because it felt like the wind is going to snatch me any time. I was very cold at this point- exposed trail, heavy wind and rain is not a good combination.
When I finally arrived at the campsite, I was too cold and damp. The sun was teasing us – hiding and then showing itself again through the clouds. After a few minutes of aimlessly wandering around and waiting for some warmth from the sun, I gave up and went inside the tent to rest to the small comfort of my malong and sleeping bag.
Harsh wind and fog as Sir William ascends to Marlboro country
I woke up maybe an hour later to some clatter of cooksets and voices. The last of the team has arrived and people are already preparing lunch. Despite the cold, I managed to get out of the tent to help and by 2:30 pm, we finally had our late late lunch.
At 4:30 pm, the group, having decided to skip the sunset at the nearby Pulag summit, went up what we called “Jr. Pulag”- a small hill near our campsite- to watch the sun say goodbye. We had a nice view of some Cordillera mountains washed golden by the light of the setting sun. There we witnessed our climb’s first sea of clouds and watched AB propose to Irene.
See of clouds at "Jr. Pulag"
Because we enjoyed Jr. Pulag, we started cooking dinner later than expected. The threatening cold Mt. Pulag is known for can now slowly be felt and everyone has started wearing jackets and layers, and has put on gloves (of course, these are not enough!). We had dinner shortly before 8pm where we devoured yummy pasta. At 9pm, some has already retired inside their tents, and some tried to feel whatever warmth a brandy/red wine can offer. As the temperature drop further, everyone went inside their respective tents in hopes of a pleasant sleep.
Dec. 6 (day 3)- Wake-up call was at 3:00 am- again, to get ahead of the other group in the summit assault. This was the hardest part of the climb for me because of the freezing cold. Getting out of our tent required so much mental strength as I struggle against a temperature that has dropped to 8 deg. C, and light signs of hypothermia. By 5:30 am, we are already on our way to the last destination of our hike: the highest point in Luzon, Mt. Pulag’s Summit.
The last part of the Akiki trail is still not very forgiving. Assault is assault all the way until the summit. However, unlike what I went through the assault via Ambangeg on February, I did not had trouble breathing. What I had trouble with is the uncontrollable shaking I have had since the night before!
At the summit, we thought we will not have a sea of clouds experience because the fog hangs so thick and heavy all around us but thankfully, we were given a clearing where we saw heaven on earth.
Descent
We descended Mt. Pulag via the familiar Ambangeg trail. I remember my first climb there and felt glad because between those two times , I have climbed many mountains and met so many amazing people.
Also, I discovered now that the mossy forest of Ambangeg is more enchanting than that of Akiki. It also feels longer and as we walked on the trail, I was so mesmerized by the surroundings. It feels like my first time again walking on Ambangeg.
Climb Notes
There are still two (2) trails I haven’t tried in Mt. Pulag. I hope I can try the Akiki- Tawangan traverse to see more mossy forests, and the Ambaguio trail soon. Also, there is still the option of dayhiking Akiki.
I am excited to know how will I complish these trails. Hopefully, my climbing buddies are as friendly and welcomming as my first and second Pulag adventure team. :D
