Mt. Tapulao (2037+ MASL)

View at Mt. Tapulao Summit

September 25, 2014- At 2037+ MASL , Mt. Tapulao is the highest mountain in Zambales. It is dubbed as the “poor man’s Pulag” because of the Cordillera like atmosphere reminiscent of the said mountain. The trail- from the jump-off to the summit – is 18kms long where 16kms is a grueling trail full of loose rocks and potholes. It is only on the last 2kms that one will enter the enchanting mossy forest. Throughout the long struggle, (our hike lasted 16+ hours in total) however, one is rewarded with a fascinating view of the other mountains of Zambales, the lowland, and the West Philippine sea. The singing of different birds and insects can also be a good distraction from the long hike.

I have been dreaming to climb Mt. Tapulao since I read the article published by the Philippine Star (see: http://www.philstar.com/headlines /2013/07/12/964524/446-rare-species-plants-animals-found-mt.-tapulao) on July. Nothing- not even when two other supposed to be teammate back-out- can defer me. Therefore, with only the two of us, and a “bahala na” itinerary, me and Anna- a mountaineer I met at the 2014 Nation Mountain Clean-up day- embarked in an overnight climb to Mt. Tapulao at Palauig, Zambales. We left the bus station in Quezon City at almost 8:00 am and arrived at the jump-off at 3: 20pm. At 3:45pm, we started our trek with our guide, Kuya Norly and his guide dog, Zoro.

All itineraries that I’ve read over the internet advise hikers to start the trek as early as 2:00am in the morning to avoid the heat. As we started later, and even later than our plan (we were supposed to leave QC at 6:30am), it became evident that we are going to do a night trek. I have heard that night trek at Mt. Tapulao is possible; however, reading about its possibility and actually doing it are two very different things. I was scared out of my wits (but excited at the same time) because 1.) it will be my first time to hike at night ,and 2.) There were only two of us. Since it was a weekday climb, there are no other mountaineers to meet.

The Night Trek

It was cold and raining when we arrived at the first water source at about 7pm. Our guide brought us to a little campsite near the trail and there we set-up and cooked dinner. We had itlog na pula with tomatoes, hotdogs, and a not so cooked rice as our dinner- it was not much but after a whole day of travel and another 3 hours of trekking, we all ate it as if it was the most delicious meal in the world.

Just before we cleared-up and started the trek, it rained again, this time harder. I felt sluggish and lazy because the cold makes me want to hibernate. I have to encourage myself to move as we still have a long, long way to go. Our target is to reach the “bunker” and set-up camp there. Kuya Norly estimated that we would arrive there about 2am- 3am in the morning depending on our pace.

We moved at about 8: 45pm. It felt very exciting as we walked through the darkness and the rain with nothing but our headlamps as lights. I especially felt like a character at the “Lost” series as we walked on the occasional swampy areas of the trail. Soon, after two hours in the darkness and cold, however, the excitement dies and you feel how tired and sleepy you are. It was my first time to experience a creeping tiredness like that- I was on autopilot mode and my mind and my body (especially my feet) feels like two different entities. It was as if my body is moving on its own and my mind is already fast asleep.

Anna is also on autopilot mode already so we decided to set-up camp at the nearest possible campsite. We agreed that we would just push through the summit tomorrow. Kuya Norly brought us to another campsite near the trail between KM 10 and KM 12. As much as we’d like to hike to the “Bunker” for our guide to have a better place to sleep-, we gave up as we cannot take another 3 hours of that exhausting walk.

Second (2nd) Day – September 26, 2014

We woke up with the stars still shining up above us. It was hard to get-up and out of the tent but we have to start early. I heated water for our noodles and coffee while all the time praying that my one and only butane gas last for the duration of our adventure. As we ate our humble breakfast of noodles and drank ordinary 3-in-1 coffee, I felt so happy and thankful that we were able to experience a kind of beauty only found in the outdoors. My heart is smiling amidst the cold mountain air because everything, no matter how simple, becomes special in the mountains.

Morning at the "Secret" Campsite

At 6:03 am, we started our trek to the summit. It was on this time that we first saw the trail of Tapulao and the view of Zambales from the mountain. It was perfect that we started at this hour of the day because the landscape is covered with the golden light of the morning sun and the temperature is just cool enough for a long trek. As we walk, I can smell the distinct scent of pine trees and hear again different bird songs- oh! How lovely it is if I can only identify those little fliers!

We reached the mossy forest at 8:15 am. The canopied trail is a very welcome sight as our eyes and feet are already sore from seeing and walking endlessly over hard rocks. As we enter, I felt as if we were in another world where we can encounter fairies and other magical creatures. What we encountered however are the blood-sucking “limatiks” – good thing I was wearing arm warmers and hiking pants!

Mossy Forest- home to Limatiks!

At exactly 9:00 am, we arrived at the summit (wohooooo!). There was a sense of accomplishment, of course, but I realized, for the first time, that climbing mountains is not just about reaching the peak. I was very happy being at the summit but the trek, I felt, was more meaningful.

We took pictures at the summit and at the famous “world tree”, rested and ate some trail food and then started the long trek down Mt. Tapulao at 9:37am.

Anna and me at the World Tree

Descent

On the way down, we passed a very steep trail to the “Bunker” where a water source can be found, we walked further and had our lunch near our campsite the night before ( it shall be noted that my one and only butane gas lasted! :D ). By the time we left at 1:55pm, it was raining and it continued to rain throughout half the trek down. This was very welcome as it distracts me from the fact that we still have almost 3-hours of ankle breaking, patience crushing long trek.

At 5:20pm, we arrived at the jump-off. I was very happy to survive Mt. Tapulao with only a sore foot, aching shoulders, and one limatik bite. I enjoyed the climb very much and currently, Mt. Tapulao is my favorite mountain. As we ride the bus home, I cannot believe how a trip that started rather badly, could be so perfect.

Trail and rain at Mt. Tapulao

In retrospect

It is almost one week after our Mt. Tapulao climb. This climb feels very important to me as it made me realize that:

I like night treks more than hiking during the day.
I like hiking in the rain but not camping in the rain. (Kuya Norly said that it often rains from the first water source to KM 12 in Mt. Tapulao)
I don't like limatiks. I might cry next time I find one clinging unto me.
I have to bring at least two butanes to avoid worrying if my one and only butane will last.
I have to learn how to identify birds.
I am ready now for hiking longer distances and camping for 3 days.